I first tasted Bikavér (Bull’s Blood) in the 1970’s. I thought it was the most awful wine I had ever tasted. It was so dry and full of tannin that it dried my whole mouth instantly. I decided there and then that it was a wine I would never drink again.
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But, a few years ago I read in a newspaper, in England, that the producers of Bikavér had decided to blend the wine so that it would be less severe and therefore would also be more suitable for Western palates. I decided to try it again and I was pleasantly surprised. It was definitely mellower and although it still has a certain amount of its characteristic dryness associated with its tannin content; your tongue doesn’t instantly stick to the roof of your mouth. It is definitely a much smoother, pleasant wine to drink.
It is a blended wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Kadarka, Kekfrankos, Kekoporto and Merlot grapes that are aged in oak casks.
There is a story of how red wine from Eger acquired the name Bikavér.
In 1552, 2,000 Hungarian soldiers, led by Captain Istvan Dobo, withstood a month-long siege to successfully defend the fortress at Eger from 150,000 Turkish troops. It was this action that completely halted the Turkish Empire’s invasion of Western Europe.
It is said that during the siege, the citizens of Eger opened their wine cellars so that the soldiers could refresh themselves with red wine. The wine spilled over their beards and down their armour. When the soldiers continued their fight the Turks saw the red stains and thought that the Hungarians had been drinking the blood of bulls to make them strong and fierce. The superstitious Turks were frightened and fled and as a result the siege was broken.
Although Eger is the most famous and traditional producer of this excellent red wine, Szekszard now also produces a very good Bikavér.
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©2009 Hungarian Connections
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